July 6: Swiss Sound of Music
It may have been raining hard for much of my hike today, but the sweet sound of cowbells echoing off the foothills around me made it all worth it. That, and the amazing hot cheese fondue waiting for me at the little chalet restaurant at the top of my climb.
When I checked my weather app yesterday and this morning for the Gingins area north of Nyon, it predicted a 30-40% chance of rain starting at one pm. So, after taking the little mountain train up to St. Cerque mid-morning I thought I might be able to hike the remaining two hours up to La Barillette for lunch in relatively dry conditions.
Unfortunately, as soon as I got off the train at 10am, large drops began to fall, creating noticeable spots on the ground all around. The drizzle quickly turned into a downpour, as water bounced off the rocks around me and the dirt and rock trail that I was on became much more like a stream bed, complete with little rapids.
As rain poured down my face and into my boots, I was tempted to turn around and huddle inside a coffee shop to wait the rain out. However, not knowing how long the wet conditions would last and not wanting to miss lunch at my favorite eatery in the world, I trudged on, grateful that my wool clothing could keep me relatively warm while wet.
As I followed the yellow path markers through a lumber yard, along a farm road, across a cow pasture, and up a steep incline made almost entirely of rocks, I could hear the beautiful melodic sound made by cowbells swinging on the necks of the cows in the foothills around me. With every herd having a distinctive sound, and individual cows making their own music each time they leaned down to graze, I felt as if I was walking into a symphony hall during dress rehearsal.
Once I reached La Barillette, located at one of the highest points of the Jura Mountains, the staff there gave me a blanket to wrap myself in and some hot tea to help me warm up. My hands were almost too numb to rip the delicious homemade bread into pieces to dip into the creamy Vacherin-Gruyere fondue. But I defrosted quickly and finished the entire pot, even prying loose the crusty piece at the bottom, called la religieuse, to polish it off.
I didn’t relish the idea of heading back out in the rain but knew I needed to get back to my hotel. Besides, after eating such a large lunch, I felt that exercising was the least I could do.
Imagine my surprise when shortly after leaving the restaurant, the clouds parted, the sun came out, and the rain stopped. Birds began to chirp, and I could hear the cowbells even more clearly.
The hike back down the mountain was especially enjoyable because I was grateful for every ray of warming sunshine, each sliver of blue sky, and all the sections of clothing that began to dry out. After descending the rockiest part of the trail, I stopped to pose in the sun with some cooperative cows and continued down the mountain. A few minutes before the trail ended, I was able to catch a partial glimpse of Lake Geneva before heading back to my hotel and then to my grandmother’s home. What a blessing to be back in the country that has always been like a second home to me.
