July 13: Serbia: It’s Going Swimmingly

After hearing mixed reviews about whether there would be complications at the Serbian border, I elected to set aside extra time on my ride today just to be safe. It turns out that I made it through three different border crossings with no issues other than a mistake on my part that could have left me without proof of motorcycle insurance in the European Union. Thankfully it all worked out!

I left Hungary this morning feeling rested and energized from a wonderful evening out and a great night’s sleep. My dinner the night before at Bloff Bisztro included one of the most beautifully presented and tasty sirloin steak dishes I have ever had. In addition to being juicy, tender and flavorful, the meat was garnished with edible flowers and accompanied by a cognac infused peppercorn sauce, bok choy, rosemary polenta, and roasted pepper caviar. Wow!

Even though it was still almost 100 degrees out, I enjoyed walking along the city’s picturesque pedestrian area on Kiraly street to get there and back. Little restaurants and cafes in all colors and sizes advertised their food offerings in store windows and on chalkboard easels, men and women congregated at small tables in the shade drinking beverages, and families strolled slowly in the evening heat.

It turns out that the shortest distance from my hotel in Hungary to my next lodging for the night would take me through three different border crossings – Bosnia and Herzegovina, Croatia, and finally Serbia. I wasn’t sure how all the checkpoints would go but figured that the ride itself, at just an hour and forty minutes long, was short enough to allow me any needed extra time at the borders.

At the first crossing I was not asked to provide any paperwork and at the Croatian checkpoint there was no line, and I was processed through rather quickly. When I got to the Serbian border, the guard there wanted to look at several different documents. Unfortunately, in the process I inadvertently dropped my green card, the required proof of motorcycle insurance for traveling in the European Union.

Typically, I make sure all my papers are with me before I leave a border, but because of the line behind me I elected to stuff all my documents in my tank bag and pull over down the road to look more carefully. At the first safe pullout five miles later, my heart raced, and my hands started shaking when I realized that my green card was missing. Copies of these documents are not considered acceptable, so it was crucial that I find my original.

I immediately turned around and raced back to the checkpoint, immensely thankful to see a rather worn-looking square of green on the ground next to the guard shack. Running up to retrieve my lost document, I could see that it had been run over multiple times but was still in one piece. What a relief!

Riding on a wave of gratitude, I made my way to the city of Sombor, noticing a stunning family of storks resting on top of a telephone pole along the way. The city itself was quite welcoming, with many green trees lining the road, their branches forming a canopy over me.

After checking into my hotel and getting some snacks at the local grocery store, I decided to celebrate my good fortune by going swimming in the city’s canal next to Café de Sol. Walking out to the ladder on the stone patio, I hesitated when I saw large clumps of river sediment floating on the water’s surface along with the lily pads. However, the water looked so welcoming and with temperatures at over 100 degrees I decided to take the plunge.

The water turned out to be incredibly refreshing. I swam to the other side and back, turning around when my feet started getting caught in the roots of the river’s vegetation. What a relaxing end to the afternoon!

Addendum: The hotel I stayed in last night (Boutique Hotel Sopiane in Pecs Hungary) was a real winner. They had paved, level, gated courtyard parking, clean and cool rooms with a mini fridge, and a great breakfast as well. They were also located within walking distance of a small grocery store and the main pedestrian street with little cafes and restaurants.