August 9: Happy Place
There are few things that appeal to me as much as being on my motorcycle. But sometimes the areas my bike allows me to visit are just as interesting. Today’s hike in the sun to La Barillette for cheese fondue on a patio overlooking the French Alps was a highlight of this summer’s adventure.
I think one of the reasons this trek is my favorite of all time is its unusual combination of million-dollar views, steep uphill ascent, and exceptional foods. How many times can you climb up a mountain and then be treated to a hearty meal of homemade Vacherin-Gruyere fondue while taking in the French Alps and all of Switzerland from Geneva to Villeneuve?
After taking the train from Nyon to St. Cerque, I headed uphill through the forested area known as the “Ballade de Beatrix,” a learning trail with signage regarding the history of St. Cerque, enjoying the shade of the trees and the wisps of cooler mountain air.
After stopping at the opening in the foliage for a picture of the farmlands surrounding Nyon below, I continued along the dirt and gravel path through a lumber yard and several cow pastures. The cows were out in full glory today, happily grazing in the sun while the big bells around their neck created a beautiful melody that rang throughout the hills. There are few things that feel like home to me as much as the sound of Swiss cow bells ringing in the air.
Making sure to avoid the enormous piles of fresh cow dung, I continued up a steep rocky slope to the little chalet that houses the restaurant. As I had made a reservation earlier, I was able to get a small table in the shade with a perfect view of Mont Blanc and its surrounding peaks.
I took my time eating lunch, slowly breaking off little pieces of the thick crusty bread and dipping them into the lush creamy cheese. After enjoying every bite of the soft part of the fondue, I carefully scraped off the burnt cheese stuck to the bottom, known as “la religieuse,” or the “nun” and polished that off as well. This hardened part of cheese is considered a delicacy by many, me included.
The hike down today was much easier than a few days ago as the mud had dried out and the rocks were not wet. I walked slowly, full of lunch and wanting to savor the views and my last full day in Switzerland this year. As I descended, I reflected on how much it meant to me to have the opportunity to do this hike again, even without my grandmother waiting to hear how my day went.