December 26: Riveting Ride From Rivadavia

With the wind howling in my ears, I leaned hard into the westerly gusts, pressing my handlebars to the right and doing my best to keep the bike upright. As the force increased and I could feel my body being lifted from my seat, I sent up a prayer of thanks for my relatively new tires, hoping that my bike would remain in its lane.

I checked out of my hotel in Comodoro Rivadavia later than usual to create the best riding window given the current wind forecasts. But conditions were blustery, nonetheless.

Heading south along Ruta 3 out of town I was treated to a breathtaking vista of the bright brilliant blue waters of the Gulf of San Jorge, its striking color created by the strong gusts mixing up its water. The vibrant blue hue stood in stark contrast to the pale and arid bleached landscape around me sparsely covered with gray-green grasses, small shrubs, and hardy bushes.

Continuing on my way, it was hard to pick which part of my lane to ride in as there were two deep ruts on each side of my path created by the heavy truck traffic, soft asphalt, and temperature extremes common in this area of Patagonia. The middle of the lane was raised and rugged, making for an especially bumpy ride.

I’ve found it helpful in these harsh conditions to focus on doing the best I can in the moment, realizing that little problems like numb fingers, dirt on my visor, or a desire for a bathroom break fade in comparison to staying as safe as possible.

One benefit of heading south with the westerly winds is that you don’t experience the same severe buffeting from passing trucks in the oncoming lane as you would if you were heading north, making for a much more consistent ride.

Fortunately, the wind lessened as the day progressed, giving me time to stop at gawk at one of the many herds of guanaco trotting along the road. One youngster nonchalantly nursed nearby while semis roared past, giving me a great reason to smile.