December 30: Penguins & Pals in Patagonia’s Wild

Deciding that a trip to the southernmost part of South America wouldn’t be complete without visiting penguins in their natural habitat, I set out on a cruise along the Beagle Chanel to Martillo Island to check out one of the world’s largest colonies. The sea lions and cormorants along the way provided an extra visual treat.

Boarding my boat in near freezing temperatures amidst heavy fog and a steady drizzle during this region’s summer, I felt a palpable sense of excitement to be heading out in the same waters as cruise ships destined for Antarctica.   

Traveling in the narrow strait between Argentina and Chili with snow dusted mountains all around, our first stop at the Pajaro Islands gave us an up-close look at a colony of black backed and white chested cormorants, resting, preening, and huddling together on the scrubby brown rocky surface. Others took flight in the air and swam in the choppy surface nearby.

Moving on to the Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse on the Isla de Los Lobos, we glided past a large herd of sea lions lounging on the stoney surface at the lookhouse’s base, the shiny wet fur of the males displayed in a much darker color of brown than the smaller females.

Arriving at Martillo Island, our boat pulled right up onto the grey gravely shoreline, allowing us to get a fantastic view of the colony of Magellanic Penguins parading past. Hundreds of these striking birds preened, waddled, and rested in groups on the pebbled and grassy surface on this remote land mass. What an incredible adventure in the wilds of Patagonia.