January 1: Adios Argentina, Hola Chile!
When I woke up to sunshine and blue skies after days of heavy fog and rain, my heart leapt with joy, not just because it looked so darn pretty but also since the warmer temperatures made it less likely I would encounter snow on the ground as I traveled over the mountain passes on my way out of town.
Riding along the Beagle Channel to the city limits, I savored the views of the sparkling blue still waters dotted with pleasure boats, tour company ships, and cruise liners. Traffic was lighter and fewer pedestrians were out in the early morning hours, making it more possible for me to take in the glistening peaks of the snow-dusted mountains towering above.
Grateful for the warmth and clear roads, I snaked my way through the foothills of the Fuegian Andes and on to Tolhuin and then Rio Grande before approaching the border with Chile. Passing Argentinean immigration and customs, I bobbed and weaved through hundreds of potholes before also passing the Chilean inspections and heading north to the ferry across the Magellan Strait.
Turning west on route 255 after disembarking from the ferry, I was thrilled to see an armadillo scurrying across the road into the small scrub brush on the other side, its grayish brown armored back, small head with a pointed snout, and short legs creating a distinctive silhouette on the tan colored sandy dirt.
Making my way south on route 9 towards Punta Arena, I discovered one of the muckiest roads I’ve ridden on since my time in Alaska. The recent rains had turned vast sections of the dirt pathway under construction into a muddy, soupy mess with no dividers or traffic personnel.
Doing my best to keep the bike upright as it slogged its way through miles of the sticky goo, muck-splattered trucks passed me on both sides, spraying me with wet, sloppy gunk. I lifted my dirt-covered visor to increase my visibility and wiped my goggles clear occasionally while focusing on keeping the rubber side down.
Arriving in Punta Arena, I was delighted to find that my hotel for the night had a parking spot right outside the window to my room. The enterprising owner suggested we open the window and feed my bags through. After a tough ride, it was great to have the check in process go so quickly.
