July 10: Roadhouses Rock!

Pulling into the Sandfire Roadhouse after almost six grueling hours in strong crosswinds last night, I reflected on how much my travel priorities have changed over the last several years. Although much of the rustic, isolated outpost several hours west of Broome was fabricated out of corrugated metal and only offered the most basic amenities, it felt like a five-star hotel to me.

When gas and food are scarce in some of the remote areas of Australia, pulling up to one of these roadhouses can seem like arriving at an oasis in the desert, obtaining access to much needed luxuries such as fuel for the gas tank, a hot meal, and even a bed to sleep in.

Each outpost seems to have its own character. For instance, last night there were peacocks and chickens roaming the grounds and colorful road signs covering the main building.

I’ve also noticed a sense of community among fellow travelers in several of these establishments so far this summer. Other than the long-haul truckers, everyone is on some kind of adventure and eager to talk about their trips. Last night I shared a meal and travel tips with two bikers who were heading west.

After a hearty breakfast of bacon and eggs, I left early this morning in an attempt to outrun some of the stronger gusts as I headed east. The strategy seemed to pay off. Although parts of today’s ride through mostly parched landscape were indeed challenging, the conditions were much more manageable, allowing me to focus on the feel of the wind in my face, the rumble of the road, and the beautiful orange and red colored dirt with pops of desert green.

It turns out that even on such a large continent it can be a small world. Several hours later when I stopped in Broome, I ran into one of the gentlemen who commented on my riding abilities in such strong winds yesterday. He gave me a big grin and said, “you made it!” What a great day on the bike!