June 24: Glorious Great Ocean Road

As I hugged the shoreline today making my way west from Lorne along the edge of the Southern Ocean from one beach town to another, I marveled at the beauty of the far-reaching vistas of turquoise and blue water, gently rolling frothy waves lapping against the honey-colored sandy beaches, and rolling foothills covered with scrub brush winding down to the water.

I rode through thick strands of eucalyptus trees forming canopies above the road, their tall white trunks and branches standing in stark contrast to the bright blue waters beyond. The road spilled out in front of me like a roll of ribbon, curving every which way as it followed the natural contours of the coastline.

Passing through Apollo Bay, the road turned inland. and the landscape became filled with farmland and pastures with grazing sheep and cattle. The wind began to pick up, the sky darkened, and temperatures dropped as I made my way to the twelve apostles’ landmark, catching a magnificent view of the tall limestone stacks rising straight up from the sea.

Continuing west to Warrnambool and then Mount Gambier, I battled severe cross winds, icy temperatures, and driving rain. Grateful for the practice I received in Iceland riding in similar conditions, I leaned into the wind, positioned myself on the far side of my lane, opened my visor to improve my vision, and turned up my heating vest.

My visibility worsened and I wasn’t sure if it was from mud splattered on me by passing trucks, the sheets of rain falling down on my face, or the fog generated by the warmth of my breath contrasted to the temperatures outside. I arrived in Mount Gambier just as the sun set in the sky, making it safely to my hotel room where I sipped warm water and turned up the heat. What a thrilling day on the bike!