June 24: More Than a Good Time on the Way to Agoudal
Wow! What a day! Today’s journey from Fes, Africa south through Ifrane and Zaidi and on to Agoudal was one of most spectacular ever! After riding through swarms of bees, navigating amongst a herd of cows, bumping and jostling along on rutted dirt roads, winding up a steep narrow mountain pass with sheer drop offs, and feasting my eyes on a surprisingly sparkling blue lake, I am ensconced in my rustic mountain abode sipping Moroccan mint tea and listening to the wind whipping around outside.
Heading out from Fes early this morning to beat the heat, I was relieved to find that the further south I went the less traffic there was, giving me more time to appreciate all of the natural beauty around me. Honey colored rolling hills, purple and yellow wildflowers, and flat-topped short trees characterized the largely agricultural areas I traveled through.
Men and women in brightly colored traditional garb worked in the fields, sheepherders rested in the shade along with their flocks, and impossibly overladen trucks carted hay off to market.
I was particularly mesmerized by one truck in front of me, as its load was more than three times as high as the vehicle itself and almost twice as wide. Determined to get a picture of this engineering marvel, I raced ahead of the driver, parked as far to the right in my lane as I could, quickly took off my gloves and managed to get a shot of the heavily laden truck as it careened past me.
Much of the ride felt like a challenging and exhilarating obstacle course. Early in the day, just before Zaidi I rode through a huge swarm of bees and managed to close my face shield before more than one of the bees became trapped inside my helmet, only to find when I stopped for gas shortly later that there were several of the insects stuck underneath my pants. Thank goodness my textile gear is so thick!
Heading up the narrow mountain pass just before Imilchil, I sent up more than one prayer that a large truck would not come barreling around a sharp corner just as I was trying to complete the same turn on the almost impossibly narrow two-lane road. It did help that I had a little more experience with these kinds of driving conditions under my belt as my heart did not hammer quite as strongly each time a passing vehicle came within inches of me and my bike.
It was especially gratifying when I reached the top of the peak and a sweet gentleman who had stopped to take a photo with his family told me in French that I had a lot of courage. I smiled and thanked him, thinking that it was more determination than courage but feeling grateful for his encouragement, nonetheless.
The view at the summit of Lake Tislit was especially jaw-dropping, perhaps because the mountains themselves were so stark, with sheer silver rocky outcroppings over dark colored dirt and dusty grey pebbles. The aquamarine-colored water surrounded by light yellow sand and nestled in the cleft of the peaks seemed incredibly brilliant in comparison.
I think my favorite part of the ride was weaving my way through the little villages at the summit before reaching my destination. I was glad I had been warned that the road would narrow substantially as I passed through the hamlets, as otherwise I might have assumed that I was lost.
Although I had ridden on a fair amount of dirt already in the day as one road construction project led to another and detours were created around landslides, the paths through the villages took the experience to a new dimension. The once asphalt pathway deteriorated to soil, sometimes leaving a narrow band of pavement with just the yellow line in the middle remaining as a reminder of what once was. Helpful locals oftentimes placed boulders on each side of the dirt and mud pot-holed path, giving travelers an idea of which way to go.
As my bike bumped and jostled across the dirt surface, I did my best to avoid the biggest potholes and mud puddles, feeling free to travel on whatever side of the road I preferred as seems to be the custom here. Focusing on keeping the bike upright became a little more challenging when village boys ran out into the street asking for money or farmers herded their cows down the middle of the road. I was extremely grateful to have the 50-50 tires on my bike as it handled beautifully, allowing me to really enjoy the experience.
Because this area is so windswept and remote, with many abandoned buildings and almost no services, I wasn’t sure what amenities there would be at my lodging. Arriving at Auberge Restaurant Afoud, I was absolutely delighted to find running hot and cold water, multiple electrical outlets, and even WIFI. Situated amongst many colorful cushions in the tile-floored and oriental rug festooned dining room, I feel like I am living a life of luxury.
