July 24: Marvelous Memories in North Macedonia
After an enchanting evening and marvelous morning in Ohrid, North Macedonia, I headed south and east to Greece today, full of good memories about the picturesque town, delicious dinner, and stunning view from my guesthouse balcony.
Reaching a closed gate on my way into the Old Town of Ohrid last night, I contacted my host who sent his son out on a moped to lead me around the gate and through the narrow, crooked cobblestone streets to my lodging. The Villa Mesokastro, a light brown stucco building with a red tile roof, was perched high up in the village, nestled between other old buildings decorated with flowers and covered in stone.
Walking down to the lakeshore for dinner, I was struck by the stunning vista before me. The water was a shimmering grey-blue color, and its surface was undulating gently in the evening breeze, reminiscent of a luxurious high thread count light blue silk sheet rippling in the wind. Personal boats and commercial ships were docked in the harbor, and visitors of all ages enjoyed food at the many restaurants lining the shore.
My cheese in a clay pot dinner at Viva Ksantika was one of the best of the trip. The piping hot traditional meal was created using feta cheese, sheep’s cheese, and “orange” cheese layered with thinly sliced tomatoes and peppers. Served along with a large round of homemade bread, the dish was dripping with butter and extremely flavorful for me as my post-chemo tastebuds are most able to pick up butter, cheese, and tomato flavors. What a treat!
After a restful evening in my well-appointed room, I woke up to a magnificent view from my room’s balcony – the morning sun shining on the beautiful red tiled roofs immediately below me, the blue waters of Lake Ohrid further ahead, and the green rolling foothills in the distance.
One of the benefits of traveling through the Balkans is that most of the countries are extremely affordable. My room in Old Town cost less than $50 and the dinner was less than $8, making my stay not only pleasant but also practical.
From Ohrid I headed south and east towards Greece, enjoying the lush green vegetation on both sides of the well paved road as well as the absence of any heavy traffic, making it easy to take in the views of the hills beyond.
After passing through the border into Greece, I noticed several large yellow signs alerting motorists about bears in the area. Every time I’ve seen a “bear crossing” warning, I’ve always hoped to get a glimpse of one of the majestic mammals. So far today I didn’t have any such luck. But who knows what I might encounter over the next few days as I continue east?
