July 16: Bosnian Mystery Ride

I don’t think I’ve ever been whisked off for an impromptu sunset cruise while eating dinner, let alone one led by a pilot who doesn’t speak English. Although I had no idea where he was taking me, it turned out to be one of the highlights of this summer’s trip.

After unloading my bike and finishing my blog last night, I headed down 50 stairs to check out my hotel’s dock and restaurant. The establishment, perched up on a hill overlooking Lake Jablanica, in Bosnia Herzegovina, offers stunning water views in every direction.  

Depending on the angle of the sun, the artificially formed lake changes colors from deep emerald-green, to bright navy blue, and even a silver gray. A myriad of houses and restaurants line the shore, and the surrounding foothills and valleys are covered with evergreen trees.

While waiting for my food the waitress told me that I could join two other families on one of the hotel’s boats tied up at the dock. It seemed a little strange to me to sit on a boat that wasn’t moving but thinking that it might be cooler on the water than in the non-air-conditioned restaurant, I readily agreed.

When I was almost done eating, the owner of the hotel hopped on the boat, fired up the motor, and took off across the lake. None of the other guests or I had been told that we were leaving the shore or where we were going, but we were all pleasantly surprised. I found out later from the owner’s son that his dad wanted to celebrate the news that he would soon be a grandfather.

There was something so very freeing about heading off to some unknown destination for an uncertain amount of time with someone I couldn’t communicate with. Rather than bother with any questions, I just focused on the refreshing evening breeze, the gentle rocking of the boat, and the spectacular pink and purple skyline highlighted above the blue and green rolling hills. The owner ended up taking us on an extended breathtaking loop around much of the surrounding lake.

After a delicious breakfast of eggs and homemade fried bread, I took off for a 40-minute hike along the river, hoping to beat the worst of the heat. The owner’s son had reassured me that all the land mines nearby had been cleared but taking the advice of a fellow biker who served in this area, I stuck to paved roads.

As I am not leaving here until tomorrow, I had this afternoon to catch up on phone calls, do a little trip planning, and return emails. My “office” today was in my air-conditioned room overlooking the dock, beautiful blue waters, and picturesque shoreline.

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July 17: Captivated on the Way to the Croatian Coast

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July 15: Another Great Dinner, Destination in the Balkans