July 18: Basking in Baska Voda
After basking in the sun at the seashore on the Adriatic coastline, I wound my way up the Biokovo mountain pass this morning headed north towards one of the most photographed natural wonders in Croatia. Boy, did I get an “Eye”ful!
As soon as I finished my work yesterday afternoon, I donned a swimsuit and flip flops to head down the crooked, narrow one-way street to the beach from my perfectly situated lodging in Baska Voda, a small town on the coast just north of Makarska, Croatia.
Passing colorfully painted stucco homes with red tile roofs, I eagerly made my way towards the water in the searing 95-degree heat. I think everyone else in the city had the same idea as almost every square inch of beachfront was covered with bright towels and umbrellas. Children laughed and played in the water while many of the adults laid out in the sun. Vendors selling all kinds of sugar treats lined the nearby sidewalks.
After making my way through the sea of sunbathers, I gingerly walked out on the layer of hard, round white rocks covering the beach and waded into the cool waters with my flip flops on to protect my feet, grateful for the relief from the heat.
Heading out early this morning, I embarked on one of the more scenic rides I have had in the Balkans. The switchbacks up the Biokovo mountains directly above Baska Voda provided stunning vistas of the bright blue Adriatic Ocean, boats underway at sea, and the Island of Brac beyond as well as close views of the sheer, jagged grey limestone cliffs to the east.
Reaching the top of the pass, I began to weave my way through one little village after another, as I headed north along the ridgeline, taking in the fields and farmlands around me as well as the rolling green hills beyond. Further in the distance, grey rugged peaks stood towering above the hinterlands.
After riding for about two hours, I turned off on a small side road towards the “Eye of Croatia,” a bright blue and turquoise pool of water situated where the Cetina Rivera flows forth from the earth. This breath-taking natural wonder, named because of its resemblance to a human eye, is almost 500 feet deep and has temperatures as low as 48 degrees.
Parking my bike at the top of the path in the small rural village of Cetina, I made my way down the steps to stand at the water’s edge, get a close look at the beautiful sparkling natural waters, and thoroughly soak my cooling vest and jacket.
Feeling totally rejuvenated, I continued north, making my way on one curvy mountain road after another to the little mountain town of Gracac to spend the night. What a great day on the bike!
