July 3: Africa: Behind the Breakdown and More
With Adventure Baby tucked safely in the hold of my GNV ferry and both of us sailing full steam ahead to France, I wanted to take a moment to thank two people who made my African adventure possible – the Casablancan motorcycle mechanic who came to my rescue during a breakdown towards the end of my trip and the Moroccan biker who so generously gave invaluable travel tips and advice throughout my journey.
When I pulled over for gas three days ago just before reaching my destination for the night on the outskirts of Casablanca, I put my foot down on my shifter to bring the bike back down to first gear as I approached the pumps and couldn’t figure out why, after a few successful clicks, I felt nothing but air. Looking down on my left, I could see the components of my shifting mechanism hanging off my bike.
Coasting up to the pump, I dismounted and could see that the bolt holding the parts of my shifter together was gone. After looking for and not finding the missing bolt, I taped the remaining pieces of my shift lever to the engine guard of my bike to prevent further loss, and contacted my host family nearby to find the location of a local mechanic who might be able to help.
With my bike stuck in second gear and my emergency flashers on, I slowly made my way to the mechanic with the hopes that the fix would be straightforward. Approaching the establishment, I could see that this shop gave new meaning to “hole in the wall business.” With their prayer rug neatly folded up near the opening, the owner had managed to fit oil, chain lubricant, and what appeared to be hundreds of motorcycle parts in a space the size of many American closets.
A Moroccan biker Facebook friend named Red Armani, who had already given me so many wonderful tips about traveling through northern Africa, facilitated conversation between me and the mechanic to resolve the problem.
After sorting through a small tray of loose bolts and screws on the ground, the mechanic was able to deftly reconnect the parts of the shifting mechanism, making Adventure Baby ready for riding again. I don’t think I’ve ever felt so happy about having my bike in full working order, as I felt so much safer making my way back through the sea of oncoming cars with my ability to accelerate intact.
I am so grateful to Red for being there for me in my time of need as well as throughout my Moroccan journey. In talking through my trip before and after I arrived, Red provided fantastic tips regarding lodging, restaurants, great riding roads, and local attractions.
For example, Red not only suggested I visit Jemaa el-Fnaa square in Marakesh, but also recommended a fantastic restaurant there, advised me to ask for a seat on the upper terrace to get a better view of the lights coming on at night, and then helped me communicate with my taxi driver afterwards to find a bathhouse that could provide me with a delightful hammam.
Red is such a wonderful example of the kindness of Moroccans as well as bikers everywhere, taking the time at all hours of the day and night to provide input and assistance. It is my hope that in some small way I can exhibit the same compassion in my own life.
