August 14: Thrilling Switchbacks in Spain
Again, again! When I reached the bottom of the mountain pass on route CA-631 between Yera and Barcenas Spain today, I felt like a kid at an amusement park who has just gotten off a particularly thrilling roller coaster ride and wants to get right back in line to do it again. And that was only part of today’s excitement.
Throwing open the wooden shutters on the window of my room in the small hamlet of Aliezo this morning, I could see the cascading foothills of the Picos de Europa mountains, their grey and brown limestone surfaces contrasting with the red tile roofs of the town of Potes below.
After eating a delicious hot breakfast including “frisuelos,” a local dish made from fried batter topped with sugar, I loaded up the bike and headed north on N 621 towards La Hermida.
I was immediately struck by how beautiful the sedimentary rock cliffs were all around me. As the road gently curved back and forth, following the Deva River, the silvery faces rose sharply on both sides, in many cases extending out into the road. Portions of the vertical surfaces were cut away to make room for traffic, and nets were in place to protect cars from falling rocks, creating a tunnel-like effect.
After N 621 ended at A8, I headed east to Vargas, getting off at route N 623 and following it and then CA 263 until Vega de Pas. The road here was quite narrow and pock marked, passing though small clusters of homes and businesses as it followed the Pas River east.
For me, the biggest thrill of the day began shortly after Vega de Pas on route CA-631 right after the town of Yera and a small sign warning motorists of sharp curves the next 10 kilometers. As the road rose in elevation, the valley to my right opened and I was hit with an explosion of green – lime green meadows, hunter green foothills, olive green crops, and forest green trees, all undulating in waves below me with yellow wildflowers sprinkled along the sides of the road.
As I zigged and zagged up and down the mountain pass, I found the hairpin curves challenging enough to require my focus but not so demanding as to take away from the beauty of the surroundings. There was enough time between the tight twists to enjoy the road and the surface of the route itself was in relatively good shape, with just enough room for two cars to safely pass.
At the base of the mountain, after passing the town of Bercedo, I headed north on N 629 and then east again on A 8, enjoying spectacular views of the Bay of Biscay, especially at Castro-Urdiales, where the grey-blue water rippled gently onto the orange hued sand beach underneath the jagged grey cliffs.
Continuing north to Bordeaux, I had time to think of all the things I am grateful for as well as to ruminate about some of the lessons I have learned on my journey. What a great day on the bike!
