July 16: Sweet 17
Today’s ride south from Bodo, Norway along route 17 through a variety of small islands was chock full of one sweet view after another – bays, rivers, waterfalls, and lagoons all connected with a variety of tunnels and bridges. The day ended with a bang when the rider next to me accidentally dropped his bike on top of the Adventure Baby when parking it in our ferry bound for the Lofoten Islands.
Leaving my lodging in Bodo this morning I breathed in the fresh salty air of the Norwegian Sea, listened to the seagulls swooping above me, and looked forward to a day of meandering along the coast before catching my 4pm ferry to Moskenes.
Twenty minutes east of Bodo I turned south on route 17, thrilled to find that this little coastal highway had so many of the wonderful views I had hoped to see but with much less traffic than on the main road. Little clusters of farmhouses sat on the banks of bays surrounded by green meadows and fields, wildflowers in vibrant colors of yellow and purple dotted the shoreline, and colorful combinations of white and grey storm clouds set against the mottled blue sky shifted with the breeze.
I was particularly taken with the little lagoons surrounded by barriers of rock and sand, their waters shimmering in delightful colors of colors of blue, green, aqua, and grey, as they rippled back and forth with the wind. It was wonderful to have extra time today to stop and enjoy these natural wonders, sitting on the rocks, listening to the sound of the water lapping by my feet, and admiring the striations in the boulders made over time.
As I motored down the road with the coast on my right, I was greeted by little rivers and waterfalls on my left, bubbling over rounded rocks and cascading over boulders. Ahead of me I was treated to views of a variety of suspension bridges, set against the snow-capped mountains.
I stopped in the little village of Kjopstad for a small lunch before turning around and heading back to Bodo. Heading north the wind had picked up a bit, and a few of the bridges had warning signs about the wind. I was grateful to have had the practice I did in Iceland, making the crossings on these arched overpasses less frightening to me than they would have been otherwise.
Arriving back in Bodo for my ferry, I boarded with plenty of time to spare before the 4pm crossing and parked in the designated area. I was standing on the right rear side of my bike sorting out the tie-down ropes when I was suddenly pushed back and simultaneously heard a crash. I looked in front of me to find another rider’s bike on top of mine in the spot where I had just been standing, his gear and bike parts intertwined with my crash bars and handlebars. A few people asked me if I was okay but to be honest, I was mainly concerned about whether there was any structural damage to the Adventure Baby.
It took awhile to separate the bikes. I was relieved to find that although the Baby was scratched up on his right side, he was able to start and had no warning lights that I could see. I did take the other rider’s name and phone number down but am hoping it won’t be necessary to follow up with him. I know it was an accident on his part and something I could have done myself. He seemed rather unsettled, and I took the time to help him tie down his bike, grateful that I finally understood the process well enough to be the one giving assistance. What an adventure!
After arriving in Moskenes, I was fortunate enough to get a table at Restaurant Gammelbua, the only dining establishment left open near my lodging. What a treat! The stockfish dumpling with ricotta and vegetables was crispy on the outside, creamy on the inside, and delicious with lemon honey sauce. The stockfish entrée with truffle seaweed Sandefjord butter was slightly browned, moist, tender, and fell apart on my fork.
After dinner I decided to take advantage of the laundry facilities at the hostel I am staying at. Since I wanted to wash my jeans and my PJs, I am sitting here in my swimsuit and wrap typing away while my clothes are being washed. Between the great dinner and the fresh clothes, I will be ready to ride tomorrow, even if it is cold and rainy.
