July 18: Oh Deer: Northward Bound
Ho, ho, ho, it’s northward bound we go. Today’s ride from Narvik to the little hamlet of Olderfjord just two hours south of Nordkapp was mainly about getting some miles under my belt. But even on days like this there are always unexpected surprises. My two favorites were the delicious fresh fish soup at the remote gas station café and the surprise visit from three different herds of reindeer.
Leaving Narvik this morning I was delighted to find that my route north took me back over the beautiful suspension bridge I rode in on the night before as well as along the edge of the silky-smooth blue and grey waters of the Ofotfjord, strikingly highlighted by green and orange vegetation on its banks and white, grey, and blue sky above.
Although my ride was just a little over 300 miles, the low-speed limits, typically from 36 to 48 miles an hour, meant a lot of time in the saddle. Rather than take long breaks during the ride, I just ate on the side of the road and gassed up when necessary, using the extended time to think thoughts of gratitude, enjoy the scenery, pray for loved ones, and plan.
Winding my way past dozens of little fjords and up, over, and through many mountain passes, I marveled at the different shades of blue in the water, the striking contrast the glacial waterfalls made as they cascaded down from the top of the rocky cliffs, and the efficiency with which Norway’s engineers created so many different tunnels and bridges.
As I got further north the air turned colder, the fog got thicker, and the rain picked up. I also started seeing more signs warning of reindeer crossing the road. Since I have never seen reindeer in real life, I was absolutely delighted to find three different herds of them on the side of the road just an hour south of my destination. They were absolutely striking, with cute small white faces, enormous antlers, and white and grey fur that camouflaged them well in the scrubbier trees at the higher elevation.
I had hoped to make it to my motel before its kitchen, the only eating option in town, closed at 7pm. However, after spending time taking photos of the reindeer, I knew I had to go with plan B, stopping at a small roadside gas station about 15 miles away to get some provisions for breakfast and to find out what dinner options there might be for tonight.
They were out of Greek yogurt which I usually eat for breakfast, so I splurged on some smoked salmon. As there were no fresh rolls left to eat it with, the gas station attendant agreed to bake a new batch for me while I ate dinner at their café. I couldn’t read most of the items on the menu but recognized the words for fish soup. What a pleasant surprise it was to receive a piping hot bowl of delicious creamy soup, chock full of generous chunks of fresh salmon and cod, and topped with fresh dill. What a great day!
