July 20: My Baby and I in France!
Pinch me. I must be dreaming! Eight time zones and three countries in 15 days. I wasn’t sure if I was going to make it, but My Baby and I crossed over into France today via the SPM Ferry from Fortune, Newfoundland to the island of Saint Pierre. There were so many things that could have gone wrong and indeed some did. But I feel a huge sense of gratitude and relief that we were able to reach this goal together.
Last night’s ride from St. Johns Newfoundland to Grand Banks, a small town close to the SPM Ferry Terminal was one of the most daunting I’ve ever encountered. I struggled to keep the bike upright as a I dealt with strong crosswinds, heavy rain, blanketing fog, a narrow winding pothole filled road, and numerous large pockets of water. But getting the tickets for me and My Baby to go to France had been extraordinarily complicated and I was willing to do just about anything not to miss the boat.
Buying these tickets was no easy matter because the website is difficult to understand, SPM ferries often doesn’t answer their phone, and there are numerous forms and permissions that must be obtained for the tickets to go through. Even after figuring out the one day I would be allowed to go to France and return, I spent almost an hour on the phone with my bank to convince them the charge for the reservation was not fraudulent. One of my Bunk a Biker hosts explained how her sister and husband had to pay $1,000 extra dollars on the island because of issues with reservations and paperwork.
Then last night my phone was so wet from the day’s ride that the battery could not be charged, and I was concerned my alarm would not go off in the morning. Fortunately, I managed to set an alarm on my computer, ensuring I was up, and My Baby and I were at the terminal an hour and a half before boarding.
I was so incredibly relieved and grateful when My Baby and I got on board the ferry and he was securely tied down on the lower level. The boat ride was more turbulent than any others I have been on. At first, I wasn’t sure why so many of the employees on board the boat had paper towels and bottles of cleaning spray in their hands. It became clearer when many passengers started throwing up!
After going through several more checkpoints upon arrival My Baby and I were free to roam the island of Saint Pierre. I learned very quickly to be extremely observant at intersections as there were many four-way intersections with no stop signs. It seemed to be a case of survival of the fittest, with drivers zipping here, there, and everywhere with the fastest one having the right of way.
It was absolutely delightful to drive along the water, look out at other little islands in the area, gaze up at the mountain above me, and explore all of the little streets with colorfully painted houses and small businesses. The sun was shining, the sky was blue, and the temperature was just perfect – warm but not too hot. What a blessing!
I was very fortunate to get a table at a restaurant as I did not arrive until about 1:15 pm and many places will not sit you after 1pm. I was told that there were only two restaurants open and the first one turned me away. So, when I arrived at the second restaurant, I explained in my best French “Je suis tres faim” (I am very hungry). The waiter was still hesitant to seat me but agreed after I explained I drove all the way from Oregon to eat there.
What an incredible meal – by far the best on this trip so far. I learned a lot from my grandmother about ordering in Europe and knew to ask for the salad of the day and the main dish of the day as those offerings are usually quite good and reasonably priced as well. I polished off every bite of my salad – a large piece of lobster meat on top of a tasty arrangement of chopped vegetables and dressing. The main dish was a delectable combination of three different meats – chicken, lamb, and sausage – surrounded by a wonderful combination of lentils and crispy breading. I decided to save some of the main dish for later so I would have room for a dessert that caught my eye – a chocolate lava cake with cream, chopped nuts, and ice cream.
Throughout the day I had been having trouble starting my bike. Several times it would not start after I stopped on the road to get directions or ask a question. I could only imagine the paperwork and money involved with changing my reservations and did not want to get stuck on the island. So, I decided to return to the terminal 15 minutes earlier than necessary just in case I had problems. It is good that I did as I ended up needing to jump start the bike at the terminal. I’m hoping the problem is a temporary one but will get it thoroughly checked out during my service in six days.
What an amazing day!
