July 30: Hawk’s Nest: A Bird’s-Eye View
Wow! Today’s ride was both awe-inspiring and arduous as I took the long way from my host’s home in East Haven Connecticut through New York and then south to Cape May to catch a ferry to Lewes, Delaware. The highlight of the route for me was the epic view of the Delaware River from my perch high up on the Upper Delaware Scenic Byway, or the “Hawk’s Nest” as it is commonly referred to.
The morning started out relatively cool as I headed west on highway 84 through the southern tip of New York to the small town of Port Jervis, the southern most entry point for the Byway. After gassing up in Port Jervis I headed north on highway 97 towards Barryville, following the Delaware River west as it separates the states of New York and Pennsylvania.
This stretch of road may be just 19 miles long, but it is packed with views of the gently flowing, winding river and the lush green foliage on the hilly terrain of both states. The ride is such a treat because it twists and winds around the base of the foothills and its height provides such a great vantage point to view the valley below. Several paved and well-marked pull-outs make it easy to safely stop and appreciate the vista.
After admiring the Delaware River, I headed south on highway 206 through New Jersey towards the Garden State Parkway. Temperatures were rising but the ride was pleasant as there was little traffic and plenty to see along the way – farmlands and fields as well as fruit stands and nurseries selling their wares.
Things got a little more challenging once I hit the Garden State Expressway heading south. This stretch of road runs from the New York state line to Cape May, my destination for the afternoon ferry ride to Lewes, Delaware. Unfortunately for whatever reason the expressway was extremely congested, with stop and go traffic for most of the four plus hour ride south and many cars pulled over to the side, perhaps due to problems with the heat.
Fortunately, I had done some research the night before on the laws related to lane splitting in the state of New Jersey. It turns out although lane-splitting is not expressly permitted, there is no legislation banning its practice. Given the high temperatures and humidity I made the call to do my best to ride between the lanes of stopped traffic, giving me a little relief from the heat. I was grateful to make it to the ferry terminal a few minutes before boarding and enjoyed the indoor air conditioning as well as the view of dolphins outside.
After arriving in Lewes, Delaware I stopped for dinner at Raas, a local Indian restaurant that was voted one of the top 100 places to eat in America. I can see why. The Lamb Shank Rogan Josh was served up in a delightful rich and flavorful sauce accompanied by caramelized onions. It was so moist it fell off the bone and melted in my mouth. I ordered the garlic and butter naan – cooked the traditional way in a clay oven – and used it to dip in my sauce. What a treat!
