June 29: Destination: North Pole

What would a trip to the Arctic Ocean be without actually going to North Pole? Today’s adventure took me south from Coldfoot Camp to Fairbanks and then the town of North Pole where I visited with Santa. I experienced more challenges on the road but overall had a wonderful day including an up-close encounter with a large Moose.

One thing I learned at my dirt bike training camp a few weeks ago is that riding a dirt or adventure bike is an athletic endeavor, not just a hobby. Guiding the bike, shifting frequently, balancing, going up and down hills, standing up on the bike, and staying upright while driving over all kinds of bumps, cracks, and ruts takes a lot of physical strength and stamina as well as mental fortitude. I have found that the adventure riding has made me famished and I have learned to fill up when good food presents itself. So, this morning I tanked up on two plates of food at Coldfoot Camp’s all you can eat breakfast buffet before hitting the road.

I had mixed feelings leaving as I was looking forward to a great ride south but also sad to leave my newfound friends – Mike, Brad, and Hardy, the kind and adventurous riders who I had shared stories with, commiserated with, and celebrated with since Deadhorse. I am looking forward to keeping in contact with them in the future as we shared such a meaningful experience together.

Overall, the ride today was much less challenging than the ride yesterday, primarily because the weather was perfect. The rain the day before had made the dirt roads to the north almost impossible to navigate but the roads heading south today were dry. By this time, I also had more experience dealing with the dust clouds and rocks spewed out by Semis, the vastly differing road conditions, and the fact the road type could change dramatically with no notice.

The most challenging aspect to the day was trying to figure out how to survive a one lane road that spanned two large hills and was not manned by any construction workers. My side of the road was covered by over eight inches of soft dirt, leaving only the opposite lane for me to drive on. But doing so put me at risk for getting run over by a semi or other vehicle coming over the hill and heading towards me.

I had no idea what to do and no one was in sight. So, on the first large hill I decided to take my chances and go over the summit, hoping no one was coming. By the time the second large hill loomed in front of me I saw that there was room to drive on my side of the road if I could find a way to cross the large mound of dirt piled between the lanes. I found one spot where a car had left a rut in the dirt and attempted to cross there. The bike handlebars swayed violently back and forth and the bike itself almost fell over. But by some miracle I was able to cross the large dirt median and make it to the other side unscathed. However, it took several miles for my arms to stop shaking and my heart rate to get back to normal.

I did make it a point to stop in Yukon River to gas up and have some of the delicious fresh salmon soup at the Yukon River Camp Cafe. This out of the way outpost makes all of their own food from scratch and serves it up with a smile. The soup is made with fresh local fish, curry, coconut milk, onions, potatoes, and heavy cream. I’m sure it would taste amazing in any circumstances. But it is especially delightful after a physically and mentally taxing ride.

Just ten miles before Fairbanks in the town of Fox I came face to face with a large male moose. I find these animals especially regal, with their large bodies, prominent noses, and beautiful eyes. This bull moose was grazing right by the side of the road, and I was able to pull over, enjoy watching him, and take some great photos. It was absolutely wonderful to be back on pavement and to experience such an up-close sighting of such a magnificent creature.

After passing Fairbanks I headed another 15 minutes south to the town of North Pole. I had noticed the city on the map when planning out my routes in Alaska and didn’t want to pass this one up. After all, if I was going to drive all the way to the Arctic Ocean, I didn’t want to miss seeing Santa. Fortunately, Santa was ready for visitors at the Santa Claus House on St. Nicholas Drive. We posed for a picture together and talked about the Dalton Highway. What a fitting end to a wonderful adventure!