June 23: Alaska at Last!

Alaska at last! I am so excited to be here! Ever since I got my endorsement to ride four years ago, I’ve dreamed of traveling to the 49th state but wasn’t sure if I would be able to make it a reality. I’ve heard so many horror stories about the condition of the roads, the availability of gas, and the presence of bears. I’m grateful that despite all these challenges I was able to cross over the border at Beaver Creek and am now less than 200 miles from Anchorage.

I left Haines Junction this morning fairly apprehensive about today’s ride to Copper Creek. Last night a fellow biker who had just traveled the same stretch of road made it a point to tell me that the drive was very difficult. This morning as I was packing up another couple told me they had been informed by someone who lives in the area that the road was in very bad condition. I decided I wasn’t ready to give up and hit the road, aiming to do my best with whatever obstacles I ended up facing.

The two biggest challenges today were the stretches of road that were under construction and the stretches of road that probably should be under construction. There are some portions of the highway that were so littered with potholes I felt like I was an avatar in a video game, dodging one hole after another, weaving left and right, and trying to find the gaps between the divots. Some of the “potholes” were the size of children’s wading pools, many of which were filled with water or mud and ready to be played in.

The parts of the highway that were under construction included long stretches of “road” that was just dirt, loose dirt with gravel, loose gravel, or gravel with wet oil on top. I focused on keeping in a low gear and maintaining enough friction to stay upright but not moving the wheels so much that I spun out. The hardest moment was when a semi passed me on a dirt road and kicked up a dust cloud so big and long, I couldn’t see anything for several seconds, giving new meaning to the term “flying blind.” I pointed the bike in the direction the road had last been and prayed that no one would hit me.

That being said, there were long stretches of the ride where I could relax for a few seconds at a time because the road was in good enough condition to drive regularly. During those times I enjoyed views of many rivers, lakes, and streams including the White River and Kluane Lake near Destruction Bay. I also took time to pose with the Welcome to Alaska sign at the border crossing.

I am currently hunkered down in my budget lodging for the night, having killed all the mosquitos that were in my room when I arrived. I’m looking forward to hopefully reaching Anchorage tomorrow and then picking up my rental bike to start the next leg of my adventure.

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June 24: Awe-Inspiring Route to Anchorage

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June 22: Yukon or Bust: Four Bear-ance Pays Off